Ace The Himalaya

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Pumori Expedition

Pumori Expedition

38 Days
  • Trip Detail at-a-Glance

  • Intermediate

    As this grade is technically challenging, climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree slopes, climbing on exposed ridges and/or 5.8 rocks. You should have a well rounded past history of climbing experience. This includes climbing some notable mountains such as, or equivalent to, the West Buttress of Denali or the Polish Glacier on Aconcagua. Peaks of our advanced beginner are best recommended for practicing this grade of mountains. Baruntse, Cho Yuo, Ama Doblam, Pumari are belong this category.


  • Trip Code: ATH360
  • Best Season: Spring (March, April, May, June) and Autumn (August, September, October, November)
  • Country Visited: Nepal
  • Trip Start: Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends: Kathmandu
  • Destination: The Summit of Mount Pumori
  • Trip Route: Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Lobuche-Pimori Base Camp -Pumori summit- Namche-Lukla-Ktm
  • Trip Style: Lodge to Lodge Trekking and Tented Camp from Pumori Base Camp and above
  • Activity: Climbing involve with Rope and Ice Axe, Sightseeing and Trekking
  • Max. Altitude:
    7,161 m /23488.08 ft
  • Group Size: Min. 2 pax pax
  • Activity Per Day: Average days can be 4 to 6/Summit day can be 12 hours long or even more
  • Trip Category: Climbing
  • Trip Highlight

    • Religious, cultural and historical sites of Kathmandu
    • Scenic flight to and from Lukla
    • Breathtaking panoramas of the mountain including Everest
    • Exploration of 200 years old Tengboche monastery, Pangboche monastery
    • Panoramic views of the dozens of peak and Tibetan plateau
    • Step inside and experience life as the “mountain people” live, in the heart of Himalaya
    • Hike upto everest Base Camp and Kala patthar
    • Exclusive small team with a high guide to climber ratio
    • High Sherpa ratio – 1 Sherpa with every two climber
    • Lead by experienced guides who have stood on the summit of Pumori and other 8000 meters peaks
    • Best Sherpa, support staff and logistics

'Mt Pumori', literally means "Unmarried Daughter" according to Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory, due to her location in the shade of Big E, which lies in Khumbu region on the border between Nepal and Tibet of Nepal. It was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser, member of a German-Swiss expedition.

Standing at the altitude of 23494 ft., Pumari is one of the central attractions of Himalayas. Any trekker or the climber who has made a trip to Everest will always remember its distinctive shape. In general, technically challenging Pumari Expedition is one of the best exercises for climbing Mt. Everest. This might be the dream of the almost climbers to put their feet on the Everest once before they die. Hence, we have used this expedition as a training peak for past Everest teams. We hope, this expedition can really fulfill your dream of reaching on the top of the Everest in your next effort if you trust once.. This climb requires solid experience on climbing as well as physical fitness.

You need to be at least in 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorekh Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori.

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.

Itinerary Overview

  • Day 01 - Arrive at Kathmandu international airport, transfer to hotel. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 02 - Pre-trip meeting and a full day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
  • Day 03 - Official formalities in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
  • Day 04 - Final Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 05 - Fly to Lukla and start trek to Phakding, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 06 - Trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 07 - Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 08 - Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860 meters) 5 hours. overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 09 - Trek to Dingboche, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 10 - Trek to Lobuche, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 11 - Trek to Pumori Base Camp, overnight at tented camp.
  • Days 12, 13 and 14 - Rest & acclimatization day in Pumori base camp. Visit Everest base camp as well. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Days 15 to 32 - Climbing Period.
  • Day 33 - Trek back to Pheruche, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 34 - Trek to Namche Bazaar, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 35 - Trek to Lukla, overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 36 - Fly back to Katmandu, overnight at hotel.
  • Day 37 - Leisure day in Kathmandu, overnight at hotel. We arrange farewell dinner for the group and guides.
  • Day 38 - Transfer to airport, departure on your own destination.

Experienced Required

The Pumori climb is not for novice mountaineers. Climbers must have knowledge of roped snow and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses). It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above advanced base camp, all members must be prepared to be tied into the fixed lines or roped to another team member at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above advanced base camp. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player". To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active walker-climber in good health. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of Asia's most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb. Climbers who have already climbed the peaks like Mera Peak; Island Peak can easily be involved in this trip

Our expeditions are not "guided" because this is not a realistic proposition in the high-altitude realm of 7,000 meters and above. "Guiding" and being "guided" implies the intimate supervision and care of a "client" by a "Guide" who can be responsible for the direct and immediate control of safety. We believe on Pumori, such a direct duty-of-care, implicit in the traditional guide-client relationship, is not possible.

Important Note

The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing High Mountain, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called trip Cancellation insurance and can be obtained from your normal travel agent. 

Flight Delay in Kathmandu and Lukla 

Twin Otter is the primary mode of transport to and from the airstrip at Lukla. This service is fairly dependable. Sometimes, flights (to and from Lukla) may be cancelled due to mountain weather conditions or technical problems. In such case, Ace the Himalaya will charter a helicopter to ensure you are on schedule for your international flight. The helicopter can fly if the visibility is 1500m, while the twin otter can fly if the visibility is 5000m, as per Nepal’s Civil Aviation rules. 

The cost of the helicopter is payable directly to our Kathmandu office in the event that this service is utilized. US cash, traveler's cheques, or credit cards (Visa Cards, Master Cards only) are accepted. You will be given a receipt upon payment so that you may claim the amount from your travel insurance. The minimum cost will be US$1000 and maximum US$3500 depending on the number of group members.

What makes this trip different ?

Ace the Himalaya works closely with and is one of the main supporters of Sambhav Nepal Foundation, a non-political and non-profit social organization. We contribute our support to the remote village of Arupokhari (Gorkha, Nepal) through donation, sponsorship and partnership in various projects.

Ace the Himalaya donates a percentage of business profits to the foundation on a yearly basis, which supports the ongoing maintenance cost required for Bhairabi Primary school, a community-based school in Arupokhari (plus few other schools in the region).

One of the major activities of Sambhav Nepal is the children sponsorship program, which is conducted with full collaboration with Ace the Himalaya.

Partnership (Volunteering Program)
The Arupokhari Volunteer Program, devised by Ace the Himalaya and Sambhav Nepal, aims to mobilize teams of experts and interested individuals as an effective and economic measure in providing the human capital for education, health and community development in  Arupokhari village of Gorkha district, western Nepal.

For more details, visit Sambhav Nepal's website