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Everest Expedition via North Side

Everest Expedition via North Side

63 Days
  • Trip Detail at-a-Glance

  • Advanced

    Since this is the most challenging category of climbing, climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree slopes and/or 5.6 rock at high altitudes and have a well rounded past history of past climbing experience. Your climbing experience should include some high altitude ascents and ability to climb technical rock, snow and ice. This includes climbing some notable mountains such as, or equivalent to, Ama Dablam, Cho Yuo, Baruntse etc. Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Lohtse, etc. belong to the advanced grade.

    Advanced

  • Trip Code: ATH348
  • Best Season: April to October
  • Country Visited: Nepal, Tibet
  • Trip Start: Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends: Kathmandu
  • Destination: Summit of Mt. Everest 8848 meters (the top of the world)
  • Trip Route: Ktm-Lhasa-Everest Base Camp-Everest Summit-Zangmue-KTM
  • Trip Style: Overland Tour with stay at the Guesthouse and Tented Camp at the Base Camp and above
  • Activity: Climbing involve with Rope and Ice Axe, Sightseeing and Trekking
  • Max. Altitude:
    8,848 m /29021.44 ft
  • Group Size: Min. 2 pax pax
  • Activity Per Day: 4 to 5 hours of driving tour below base camp and 5 to 10 hours climbing. Summit day can be up to 15 hours
  • Trip Category: Climbing
  • Trip Highlight

    • Kathmandu city tour
    • Stunning flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa
    • Visit to Everest Base Camp and base of the Everest North Face via Rongbuk Valley
    • Step inside and experience life as the “mountain people” live, in the roof of the world
    • Sightseeing tour in Lhasa
    • Scenic drives Nepal/China Friendship Bridge to Kathmandu
    • Exclusive small team with a high guide to climber ratio
    • High Sherpa ratio – 1 Sherpa with every climber
    • Lead by experienced guides who have stood on the summit of Everest and other 8000 meters peaks
    • Best Sherpa, support staff and logistics

Everest climb via North (Tibetan) side is the least expensive way to climb it. The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu. On the Friendship Bridge, border Crossing between Nepal and Tibet. Upon entering Tibet, the clocks immediately go forward by 2 hours. Our secondary government liaison officer will meet us in Zhangmu. After clearing Tibetan customs and immigration, a Chinese bus takes us up the windy road through the rolling hills to Nyalam town at 3,750 meters, and a basic "hotel". The smaller towns in Tibet are generally simple and rustic places, and this one is no exception. The topography here is quite interesting in that we are perched in the transitional zone where the Tibetan plateau rams into the Himalaya, then drops into the forested valleys and jungles of Nepal, and finally out into the Gangetic plain of the Terai and India. We stay over one extra night in Nyalam, to help adjust to the altitude, and during our "rest-day" in Nyalam, we take advantage of the interesting surroundings to walk to the top of local hills and savor the first glimpses of the Himalayan Giants.

Everest North or South?

Ace the Himalaya run expeditions to both sides of the Everest - to the North Ridge and to the South Col route. We run an expedition to the South Col because this remains the most popular choice for first-time "Everest climber," as it gives the most assured means of reaching the top. Simply, the time spent at over 8,000 meters on the South side is less, as the summit is attempted from the South Col (just under 8,000 meters) in one push. On the North Ridge, the top camp is located at 8,400 meters, which means you will be exposed to the extremes of altitude for appreciably longer, spending at least one night there during the summit attempt. The south side has a good record of success, not least because a lot of people go that way, but also because of the momentum that these people generate, especially once the route to the top is opened by each year's first ascentionists.

However, the North Ridge has become more accessible in recent years, and for those able to cope with the tougher physical demands imposed by the route, it gives a more cost-effective means of getting to the top. It also avoids the Hilary Step, which can become an insurmountable obstacle purely because of the number of people trying to negotiate it on summit day. However, technical interest is similar, if not more sustained on the North Ridge, as longer passages are on rock, with a series of "Steps" to be negotiated on the way to the summit.

Itinerary Overivew

  • Day 01 - Arrive at Kathmandu airport (1345meters). Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 02 - Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 03 - Official formalities and Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 04 - Final Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 05 - Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa (3660meters). Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 06 - Sightseeing in Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 07 - Second day of sightseeing in Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 08 - Drive to Gyantse (3950meters) - 261 k.m. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 09 - Drive to Shigatse (3900meter) - 90 k.m. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 10 - Drive to Shegar (New Tingri) (4050meters) - 244 k.m. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 11 - Drive to Ronguk (5000meters) and  hike to Everest Base Camp (5150meters). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 12 to 16 - Acclimatization and local exploration. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 17 - Trek to First Interim Camp (5,680m). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 18 - Trek to Second Interim Camp (6,088m). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 19 - Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,440m). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 20 to day 58 - Climbing period of Everest 8848 meters from North Ridge. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 59 - Packing personal equipment at base camp. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 60 - Depart base camp and drive to Zangmu. Overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 61 - Drive Kathmandu from Zangmu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 62 - Leisure day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 63 - Transfer to international airport for your final flight departure.

Experienced Required
The most required factor on our 'Everest Expedition' is that the participants must have a solid understanding of mountaineering skills. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 meters, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000 meters expedition. By our experience we have found that those who have been to 7000 to 8,000 meters peak previously have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. We would strongly advise you to climb one of the other 7000 or 8,000 meters peaks before going to Everest, as this is the best way of ensuring the money you spend on Everest will be rewarded by a successful ascent and a safe return home. Exceptionally, however, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing 7000 to 8,000 meters peak may consider Everest if they have a compensating depth of experience.

Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb Alpine routes. All team members must be competent mountaineers and self-sufficient with the ability to move between and to live in High Mountain camps un-aided or supervised.

This expedition is not "guided" because this is not a realistic proposition in the high-altitude realm of 8,000 meters and above. "Guiding" and being "guided" implies the intimate supervision and care of a "client" by a "Guide" who can be responsible for the direct and immediate control of safety. On Everest, such a direct duty-of-care, implicit in the traditional guide-client relationship, is not possible.


Important Note
The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing High Mountain, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called trip Cancellation insurance and can be obtained from your normal travel agent. 

What makes this trip different ?

Ace the Himalaya works closely with and is one of the main supporters of Sambhav Nepal Foundation, a non-political and non-profit social organization. We contribute our support to the remote village of Arupokhari (Gorkha, Nepal) through donation, sponsorship and partnership in various projects.

Donation
Ace the Himalaya donates a percentage of business profits to the foundation on a yearly basis, which supports the ongoing maintenance cost required for Bhairabi Primary school, a community-based school in Arupokhari (plus few other schools in the region).

Sponsorship
One of the major activities of Sambhav Nepal is the children sponsorship program, which is conducted with full collaboration with Ace the Himalaya.

Partnership (Volunteering Program)
The Arupokhari Volunteer Program, devised by Ace the Himalaya and Sambhav Nepal, aims to mobilize teams of experts and interested individuals as an effective and economic measure in providing the human capital for education, health and community development in  Arupokhari village of Gorkha district, western Nepal.

For more details, visit Sambhav Nepal's website www.sambhavnepal.org